Travel in Hawaii, and moving to Honolulu

john.b

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This won't be useful to so many people here related to work, but some might be curious how late-stage pandemic and economic impact have affected Hawaii. My family just moved from Bangkok to Honolulu, or at least that's in progress, with both kids having lived and went to school here for over a month. I'm still sorting out the main detail, employment, but working remotely from another country, for now.

Tourism is back, of course. Someone intimately familiar with the local industry, a real insider, would know how the numbers go, or if hotel room pricing ever fully recovered. I can only add that Waikiki looks a bit busy, and some restaurants seem full. At a guess it's not where it would've been pre-pandemic, and room rates never really recovered. That's a complete guess, since I'm trying to peg how limited demand shift affects that factor, and guessing out visitor demographics as an indicator based on memory from a long time ago, 15 years back, when I went to grad school at UH Manoa.

It's possible to still see a good number of vacant businesses; that's another indicator that the ramp-up isn't complete. Homelessness is on a completely new level since my school days, back in 2008. That's seemingly a recent change, but I'm not sure what that means, and discussion goes in a lot of directions. The local rumor / urban myth version is that people or government agencies in the mainland give free airline tickets to homeless people to "live in paradise," essentially to just go away. That sounds unlikely, but maybe. The strange part of that shift is that there were obviously mentally ill local homeless people 15 years ago, but there are several times over their earlier numbers now. How could that change so fast, if they were already here earlier on?

A related part I can't stop considering, but of course can't place, is if tourists seem different to me, if different nationalities, class levels, or sub-culture groups are more represented. I'll be blunt about one obvious change: a lot more visitors are black. As a liberal I can't read into that too much; it could mean a lot of different things, and I'm not hasty to apply judgment. One local rumor I've heard related to how different class ranges of people "discovered" Hawaii when covid era crashed tourism, causing radical discounting. If you visit the large, mainstream, above average cost hotels everyone looks the same to me, white, old, and out of shape. Often enough it seems like grandparents visit with teen grandchildren, or plenty of older people travel alone.

Japanese tourism seems to have been impacted; their economy hasn't been so strong for awhile. Of course Chinese tourism ended, but that was probably early in building up in 2008, when I was here, or maybe Hawaii never became a popular destination. There are a lot of nice beach areas to visit back in Asia, and Japan had their own connection with Hawaii, for whatever reasons.

It's hard to get this to overlap with travel recommendations. Hawaii is what it was, nice beaches, a fantastic environment, in either really crowded and developed areas (expensive), or in more isolated settings (even more expensive). We've been in other areas in Oahu since coming here, most of them, as it worked out, and the impact or change seems less significant there. Local people either had the financial stability to stick around and maintain their earlier lives or else could've left. Or some are those homeless people now? The local homeless camp on the far Western shore, where that had been most of it before, looks like I remembered it, as far as counting tents indicates population. Other small rows of tents in Honolulu are new.

The people are fantastic here; I'd like to end this on a positive note. Often that range of "aloha spirit" local themes ends up not meaning much, if you are a relative outsider, but not here, plenty of people are living that out. Until you give them a reason to see you as an ungrateful guest, but it's best to never go there, to join in that spirit instead of opposing it.
 
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I have mixed feelings about whether or not Hawaii is "worth it" as a vacation destination. It's definitely nice, but as I see discussion of options and costs in a related online group it all can seem a bit absurd. Someone was just questioning if $10,000 would be enough for a week's vacation, and different answers said different things, but in general people were saying that's about right. It's only a good value if spending a lot is seen as reasonable.

Then people are spending less on tourism stays than they were 20 years ago; the stats on this are clear. Hotel prices have only mostly held steady, I think, and food costs and other travel expenses are now much higher. It's about a different approach to tourism taking hold, some people not saving up for years to spend a lot, but instead going there to live out a more moderate spending experience. A family might spend $1000 on a luau experience, or they could skip that.

I live in Thailand part of the time as well and you can stay in the country and travel for a month or two on $10,000. The waters aren't as clear, but even related to that you could take boat excursions out to remote islands to experience that for far less. Some people in Hawaii actually resent tourists more, because they're not always considerate about observing local norms, and to be honest probably because many locals suffer to keep up with rising costs while tourists can come and live as if there is no spending limit, many of them.
 
My son is his last year at high school there; it has been a difficult and costly project but we've maintained a second home, an apartment, in Honolulu for 3 years. I never could switch my job over. What I do sort of applies back there, but it's not directly equivalent (covered more in another post), and I'm in my mid-50s, aged out of the labor market for this field.

There isn't much for additional or changed perspective. It has been interesting not feeling completely welcomed back in my own country, in the last US state I lived in, since Hawaiians don't really love the idea of anyone from anywhere moving there, even though most are either transplants or mixed race tying back to transplants. It's like that Gangs of New York movie, in a sense, that "the natives" aren't really native either.

A close family friend is 3/4ths Hawaiian, and that's how it goes, that counts as full Hawaiian. One of my son's best friends is Hawaiian and Mexican and he's maybe an even better example. In the city people identify with a mixed culture, but group by their primary background. It's not a problem if someone is a 50-50 mix, because that's normal, but it does complicate being accepted by either group. My son being half Thai makes him a relative outsider, just not in comparison with the white kids, who are the least liked racial or social background group. It's funny how people group up like that, all the worse in middle school or high school, since people are still figuring out who they are, or will be.
 
OK and what's the real problem or issue? People believe what they believe and will continue to do so until the believe something else. Over my 74, soon to be 75 years of living from one end of the US to the other and in a couple different parts of Asia I developed a habit of if they like me fine, ok, if not, they can pack sand in a dark spot, and I move on. My history, lineage and DNA says everything is a load of Krap.

Any further might get this conversation blocked.
 
I was just explaining the cultural issues, adding an update since I discussed this a year or two ago last.

In any culture or society there is always some divide between people seen as insiders and outsiders; nothing I said there was any type of special case. I guess Hawaiians holding a bias against mainland Americans is novel, because it's all one country, but as I see it not really overly so. 90% of everyone there is either Hawaiian, Pacific Islander, Asian, or mixed race, with most of the rest are white. Minority status is the same everywhere, with some degree of variation in acceptance.

In my daily life I don't give this much thought, in Thailand or in the US. People can think whatever they think, and in most places in the world most people are fine with most other kinds of people, in my experience. But it would be normal for others to wonder how it all plays out in different places. Are Asians in Asia biased against white people, or not? Not really, but of course some could be. In Honolulu you don't explicitly experience it. In more rural Hawaii you definitely would, unless most people there were US military. Job hunting is a special case; Hawaiians try to hire Hawaiians, which I see as perfectly understandable.
 
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